What You Need To Make A Bra

Everyone often thinks that making a bra is difficult and requires tons of hard-to-find materials. Actually, you can easily make a group of bras, like strapless, tube, padded, or best bra for wide set chest with straightforward stuff.

When creating a bikini top on your own, you can design and decorate it in the style that suits you the most. We’ve shown a supply list for the first time bra-maker to start the work. Now, let’s get the ball rolling!

Bra-making Machine and Stitches

Our undergarments are stretched and under lots of stress when we’re using them. And the stitches’ quality is the secret to a bra’s durability after many washings and wearings.

You don’t really need a modern device that does loads of types of stitches. Indeed, what you  need is solely three stitches to ensure the functional performance of a bra.

Straight stitch is the first basic sort used for both seaming and topstitching. When the machine runs, this stitch gives out a straight line of upper thread engaging with a straight line of bobbin fiber underneath.

The second type to come is zigzag stitch – the most common one after the straight stitch. Bra makers often apply this one in stretching seams, edge finishes, or sewing elastic. It is particularly useful for eliminating thread tears posed by undergarment stress.

Although the standard zigzag is a multi-functional stitch, it sometimes causes elastic to lose stretches or delicate fabric to bunch up closely. Consequently, the thread line may pucker and not be flat.

You can use the 3-step zigzag stitch instead to avoid those disadvantages. This stitch sort is flatter, stronger, and able to add durability to your brassiere. However, the 3-step zigzag is hard to remove. So please test it and double-check the construction before sewing.

Patterns and Where To Buy Them

There is a wide array of bra patterns that you can find, namely partial band, molded cup, or sport. Nonetheless, should it be your first bra, the highly-recommended pattern is a classic full band bra. This bra gets a band running under the cups so that you can sew it without underwires.

Bra patterns are available in many brick-and-mortar and online stores. It would be best if you opted for famous and prestigious brands like Pin-Up Girls or Merckwaerdigh to have high-quality patterns with various sizes and colors.

Bra-making Kits

If you desire to buy components separately and personalize your own bras in the way you wish, you can follow the material list below.

Band Fabrics

Band fabrics

The brassiere band goes around the boob and hooks up in your back, so the band fabric should be easy to be stretched. Besides, the band shouldn’t also be too stretchy as it may move upward out of its proper position. You’d better select band fabrics with a solid stretch like PowerNet to let the bra embrace your body perfectly.

Cup Fabrics

Unlike band fabrics, cup fabrics are more supportive without stretch. Therefore, the cup fabric should range from no-stretch to low-stretch to provide shape to the bust.

Duoplex fabric is a good choice since it’s 100% polyester tricot knit and doesn’t contain spandex. That’s why this fabric is lightweight, comfortable, and washable.

Band Elastics

We’ll need two elastics – one for the top of the band and one for the bottom, at the edge of the underarm. It is the bottom elastic to support the cups; thus, this elastic should be wider than the top one.

You can choose among soft band, firm band, gripper, plush band, and wideband elastics based on your project. Wideband sort is usually for big-sized cups, gripper is for medium cups, and soft bands are for smaller cups.


There are a couple of material combinations for straps, including all-elastic, non-stretch, or both. Some suit better with certain clothes, and some suit better with certain body shapes. Our kit of choice is non-stretch strapping as this one is firm, detachable, and doesn’t give out any stretch.

Underwire & Wire Casing

As we’ve mentioned, if you go for a full band bra, the underwire is optional. Nonetheless, wire casing, or wire tubing, going around the cup is a must. Since it is slid inside the tube, the wire deters bias edges from tearing out.

You can look up underwire measurement charts on the Internet to find your suggested size or select the size based on your traditional daily bra. In case you choose the second way, please make sure the size you’re wearing is exactly for you.

Hooks & Eyes

Hooks and Eyes

Hooks and eyes assist in fastening undergarments and are often positioned at the top of the hook-up. Not only do they help overlap the breast band edges but they also hold the fabric ends together.

They come in a broad range of sizes, from tiny to immense. You can use 1×3 hooks & eyes set (one hook high and three eyes wide) for small cups, 2×3 for medium cups, 3×3 set for large cups, and 4×3 supports for super large breasts.

Neckline Trim

Neckline elastic trims are ornamental and stretchy cuts sewn around the fabric’s edge to complete it neatly and sightly. You can use these tools for many sewing projects, primarily for bras strap trim.

Neckline trim often comes under a zigzag stitch, allowing the fabric to bend along with the trim and wrapping off the edge. Besides, it can prevent that raw edge from tearing and stretching out in case the stabilizer’s thin strip is sewn under the trims.

The Adornments

The small adornment, or the bow, contributes greatly to your bra’s additional finishing touch, making it look as new as you’ve just bought it.

Apart from offering a decorative function, this item also conceals the closing stitch line of the wire casing and adds a pretty appearance to your undergarment.

Bottom Line

Sewing a bra on your own is not only more economical than buying one but also helps you get a bra that fits you perfectly in the style you wish. With several simple kits and patterns above, you can become a great bra maker without experience or professional techniques.

We hope our post does give you a hand to have a good preparation for your bra-making process. So now, let’s put your creativity into practice!

Top Five Factors to Consider Before Buying a Serger For Beginners

You love sewing and intend to buy a serger for beginners, but still don’t know what factors to consider before buying one? Let’s read this post to find out!

A serger or overlocker is a popular, preferred machine used in typical households because it is compact, lightweight, and versatile. With the support from such a compact machine, any people, even if entry-level sewer, can still finish the project.

Thus, it’s recommended to buy an overlocker, especially for those who don’t have much time to craft. However, we understand that it’s challenging how to find a proper best serger sewing  machine for beginners without any instruction.

In this post, let’s dive deep into the top 5 factors to consider before purchasing a serger.

Five factors to consider before buying a serger for beginners

Your sewing level

The first factor to think about is how experienced you are at sewing. There are different skill sets between newbies and professionals, and your experience on the serger may be affected by that. Hence, it would be best if you read the serger’s guideline and watch the demo to see whether the serger is compatible with you.

We don’t think you can differentiate and even make use of all functions in a high-end machine and a basic one for entry-level buyers. Thus, we recommend you not invest too much money on sergers in the meantime, but rather focus on making use of all functions in a cheap serger instead.

The most helpful features, based on your need

Color-coded threading serger

Generally, there are three features that each serger must-have, and you can take a quick look at these features to decide which functions that you want your serger to master.

The first feature is the color-coded threading. Not every overlocker contains the automatic color-coded threading. If you want to use different color threads, please carefully read the guideline to check out whether a serger has this function or not before buying.

The second feature to think about is the automatic/customized thread tension. Some sergers for beginners provide automatic tensioning, giving users better control over the result, and delivering smoother stitching lines.

On the other hand, the expert users will prefer the models with customized tensioning because they can adjust to the level they like.

Thirdly, the feed is what you should consider. This is the most critical factor on any serger because the feed controls the knife, which is the main component to conduct the sewing task. Hence, please examine the feed carefully to test whether it can provide smooth edging and ruffling.

Sewing frequency

The sewing frequency is another factor to consider. The sergers are designed to “blend” with the sewing machines to produce the best sewing product. Hence, you should consider the type of sewing machine you will use in order to buy the most suitable serger.

For instance, if you plan to use the serger every day for lots of coverstitch work, you should think about buying a serger that can handle at least five threads.

But if you want to use the serger only for hemming, seaming, or finishing edges on garments, then a basic overlocker with 2 to 4 threads would be good enough.

In addition, the serger with more threads can work with higher efficiency, more versatility, and stability, but, certainly, have a higher price.



Pricing has always been an important component that you should consider before buying any product. There is a common saying that “You get what you paid for”, hence, the more pricey the machine is, the better it is.

Given that fact, we can all agree that we should claim for the expensive models when choosing a serger. Well, it’s true, however, not totally a good option, though. The basic, cheap serger is also acceptable for entry-level users because people don’t demand much at the beginning level. The cheap ones can also satisfy the need to sew.

In short, we advise you to consider the price carefully before buying it. A high-end serger is always high quality, but sometimes you just don’t need that much of a serger. In some cases, having a cheap serger, but you make use of its function will help you produce greater projects than having a high-end overlocker but cannot exploit all of its function.

Mechanical vs Computerized models

There are two types of sergers available on the market nowadays: mechanical and electronic sergers. The mechanical is the traditional, widely-used, cheap; meanwhile, the latter is more powerful with touch-screens integrated. It’s subjective to select which is the better because each type has its strengths and weaknesses.

The mechanical machines are more lightweight, compact, and versatile. Some components are integrated into the electronic nanochips, making the machine smaller and easier to carry. You don’t need to do as much maintenance as the mechanical ones, either.

In contrast, the mechanical ones provide the more customized and powerful cut. The motor is organic, so there will be inconsistency during the sewing, but that is when your skill will be showcased.

You will be challenged to be aware of the cut’s power, the pattern, the feeling, and make a change whenever it is necessary. It is the same case for playing a grand piano and an electronic piano.

The feeling of being a master in a field, and then you can use the tool to support your project, not the tool that controls your performance, is so exciting and fulfilling, right?

Wrapping it up

Through this post, we have gone through the top 5 factors to consider before buying a serger for beginners in order not to choose the improper ones.

However, the list above are some of the tips we have figured out after years of experience, so there can be many other factors you should also pay attention to when purchasing a serger. Please have more further research to have the best final decision.

We hope this article provides you with helpful insight regarding buying a serger. Thank you for reading, and enjoy your sewing!

Baby Blanket pattern using I-corg

Magicord Machine Baby Bow Trimmed Afghan©


Copyrighted by Cara Bernhauser

Obtained from Cara’s Free Page: www.cara4webshopping.com



  • Small: Approx. 24″ x 36″ (61cm x 92cm)
  • Medium: Approx. 30″ x 42″ (76cm x 107cm)
  • Large: Approx. 36″ x 48″ (92cm X 122cm)

TENSION: 16.67 sts and 25.56 rows = 4″/10cm measured over the pattern using the Classic/ISM Keyplate dot 3.


Any D.K. 100gram yarn.
Size S M L Yarn Color
Balls 3 4 5 #01 White
Baby yarn, or sport weight yarn:
Size S M L Yarn Color
Oz. 3 4 5 Each Aqua & Peach.

Bond America’s Magicord Machine.

A two-prong tool to hang LL cords.


  • This design is made by hanging the cords on the heads of the knitting loom/machine needles every 10 rows. (to hand knit, on purl rows, pick up a loop from cord and knit both loop and stitch as one.)
  • The color order is 2 cords of the Aqua, then 2 cords of the Peach.
  • The body of the afghan is knit, afterwards the loops are whip stitched at intervals to form the bows.



  1. With the baby yarn make:
  2. 12 cords, each color, 30″ long, leaving a 3″ tail at each end. Weave the ends into the cord.
  3. This forms the long lengths [LL]
  4. 30 cords, each color, 6″ long, leaving a 3″ tail at each end. Knot ends to form a loop.
  5. Weave the knotted ends into the cord.
  6. (It is easier to knit 16 yards with the magicord machine, then cut these to the finished lengths.
  7. (I’ve allowed extra for cutting.)


  • With the baby yarn make:
  • 14 cords, each color, 36″ long, leaving a 3″ tail at each end. Weave the ends into the cord.
  • This forms the long lengths [LL]
  • 35 cords, each color, 6″ long, leaving a 3″ tail at each end. Knot the ends to form a loop.
  • Weave the knotted ends into the cord.
  • (It is easier to make 22 yards with the magicord machine, then cut these to the finished lengths.
  • (I’ve allowed extra for cutting.)


  • With the baby yarn make:
  • 16 cords, each color, 42″ long, leaving a 3″ tail at each end. Weave the ends into the cord.
  • This forms the long lengths [LL].
  • 56 cords, each color, 6″ long, leaving a 3″ tail at each end. Knot the ends to form a loop.
  • Weave the knotted ends into the cord.
  • (It is easier to knit 30 yards with the Magicord machine, then cut these to the finished lengths.
  • (I’ve allowed extra for cutting.)


  1. Bring forward to HP:
    1. 100 needles for the small size baby afghan. (cast on 100 sts.)
    2. 126 needles for the medium size baby afghan. (cast on 126 sts.)
    3. 150 needles for the large size baby afghan. (cast on 150 sts.)
  2. COR (The carriage is on the right side.)
  3. Hang the hem.
  4. Hang the Aqua LL cord across the heads of the needles (hand knitters, leave 3 inches of cord loose. Knit one loop of cord with EACH stitch across row. leave excess hang off edge.):
    1. Fold the LL cord in half to find the center.
    2. Insert the two-prong tool into the center of the LL, then hang onto the center two needles. (To reduce bulk, use only one strand of the yarn in the cord (half a stitch).
    3. Work from the center outward to each side, hanging the cord evenly. Hanging two stitches, skipping one, works the best. 3″ or more will be left at each edge. (This will be sewn to the sides later.)
  5. Knit ten rows. Knit the first row slowly. It helps to keep the cord beneath the fabric guide as you knit.
  6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for your total length:
    1. 230 rows for the small size.
    2. 270 rows for the medium size.
    3. 310 rows for the large size.
  7. Hang your last LL cord.
  8. Bind off by back stitch method (or your favorite method).
  9. Remove from the machine.


  1. Look at the vertical sides.
  2. The bottom cord’s ends will go up the sides to where the next cord begins. If it is longer than needed, unravel to the proper length.
  3. Sew the cord to the sides.
  4. Graft the ends to the new cord at the bend.
  5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 until you reach the last cord.
  6. Graft the last cord in the corner.




  1. Look at picture m-fig1.gif. There are 2 cords of each color. The bows are made between the cords of the same color.
  2. Fold the 6″ loops in half, figure-eight style, with the knot in the center of the bow. (See makebow.gif)
  3. Whip stitch the center loops, between the same color cords, for your size:
    1. For the small size, 3 bows, one in the center, the other two centered on each side.
    2. For the medium size, 3 bows, one in the center, the other two centered on each side.
    3. For the large size, 4 bows, evenly spaced, approximately 8″ apart.
    4. Weave in any loose threads as you go.
  4. Whip stitch the end loops, to make bows along the edge. Place them only where the centered bows are. (Only between the same colored cords.)


  1. Lightly steam the baby afghan on WRONG SIDE. Do not use iron. Acrylic goes limp with too much heat, so do not let iron touch fabric. Pull lightly into shape as you steam to block square, if needed.

Leg Warmers to knit, crochet, or machine knit.

Cara’s Leg Warmers Knitting Pattern for Everyone!

copyrighted by Cara L Bernhauser, my site is https://www.cara4webshopping.com

Leg warmers are actually like sleeves with ribbing on both ends.

NOTE: We don’t make leg warmers for sale, this is a pattern to knit your own.

. Read directions down this column. Your answers:
. Make a swatch of the pattern for leggings. (Could be fair isle, ribs, plain knitting, etc.)
A Put your stitch gauge here (stitches per inch). .
B Put your row gauge here (rows per inch). .
C Measure the ankle width (make sure heel will fit through). .
D Measure the calf (or the thigh) at the widest point. .
E Measure Length from ankle to top, for total length. .
F Now decide how much ribbing will be at each end. .
G Multiply the stitch gauge [A] times ankle width [C] for needles to cast-on. .
H Multiply the stitch gauge [A] times calf/thigh width [D] for needles to cast off. .
I Multiply ribbing length [F] times two (for both ends). Subtract the answer from the total length [E].

This is the patterning length.

J Subtract ankle width [C] from calf/thigh width [D] for number total increases. .
K Divide total increases [J] by 2, (we will increase at both sides at once), for the knitting increases. .
L Divide patterning length [I] by the knitting increases [K], for rows between increases. .
M Multiply ribbing length [F] times row gauge [B] for rows of ribbing. .
Knit bottom ribbing rows, [put M here]: .
Set up for patterning.
(+2 stitches, every _________ [put L here] rows, __________ times [put K here] )
Work in pattern, making increases (above), you should end up with total stitches: [put H here.] .
Knit patterning length. [put I here], for the total amount of rows: .
Knit top ribbing rows. [put M here]: .
Loosely bind off stitches. .

Hobby Knitter 2 Carriage Technique

Cindy Polfer – [email protected]


(copyright 1997 by Cindy Polfer)

Two-carriage fair-isle is really a neat way of knitting in your contrasting color by means of a carriage instead of hand manipulation. To work this method you need two carriages and an intarsia keyplate/carriage. The first carriage uses the regular keyplate and is threaded with the main color yarn. The second carriage has the intarsia keyplate inserted into it and is used to knit the contrasting color.

Here is the procedure:

Cast on the number of stitches needed for your project and knit the number of rows needed of the main color yarn until the two-colored patterning begins.

Step 1: Place the needles to be knit in the contrasting color into holding position (HP). Knit the main color stitches with the first carriage.

Step 2: Place the needles in HP into forward working position (FWP) [that is, the needles are in a position to knit with the stitches BEHIND the latches and the latches OPEN]. Now lay your contrasting color into the needles beginning with the needle farthest away from the first carriage. [It is actually the side from which you first starting knitting with the first carriage.] Place the second carriage, with the intarsia keyplate inserted, onto the bed at the side opposite the first carriage. [ It is the same side you started laying your contrasting yarn in the needles.] Push the second carriage across the needle bed, knitting in the FWP needles with the contrasting color. After you knit the row with the second carriage, all needles will be in FWP. REMOVE second carriage from the bed. Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to knit every row of pattern containing two colors.

Special Knitting Tips and Hints:

  1. While knitting, ALWAYS CHECK to see if the LATCH IS OPEN on any needle where the stitch is behind the latch.
  2. If you wish to knit in the yarn floats that occur between contrasting color sts or catch in the end of the contrasting yarn at the end of each row, work the following before knitting the main color of the next row as described in Step 1.

Floats: Before knitting the main color as described in Step 1 above, pick up the float (the best place is in the center) and place it on ONE of the needles directly above the float, placing the strand of yarn BEHIND THE LATCH with the stitch that is already there. It will knit into the back of the work as you pass the carriage to knit the main color. [My rule of thumb for knitting in floats is that I knit them in if they are carried more than 1″. Ex: If your stitch gauge is 5 sts = 1″ , I would always knit my float into the back of the work if the yarn is carried more than 5 stitches across the back. ] Also be careful of knitting in floats always in the same position (that is, on top of one another. Spread them out if possible. Also be careful of knitting in dark color floats on a light background. Sometimes they tend to show through. You may want to secure the floats by some other means after you have knitted your garment.

To catch in the contrasting color at end of row: Before knitting the main color as described in Step 1 above, take the end and lay the strand of yarn on the end needle or second to the end needle with the strand of yarn BEHIND THE LATCH. I then put a clothespin or clip on the end to insure there is some tension on the end and it will knit into the back of the work properly.

  1. Another tip is to adjust the intarsia keyplate tension to what works best with your main keyplate tension. You may want to have the intarsia keyplate tension slightly tighter to avoid droopy loops on the back of the fabric.

I hope this explains the procedure. I like knitting fair-isle this way because the contrasting color tension is much more even and it goes a little faster not having to hand manipulate all of those stitches.

If you don’t have a second carriage, they are available for purchase. You can do it without a second carriage, but you must always unthread and switch keyplates with every pass of the carriage. It becomes very tiresome – fast!!!!!

These instructions have also been written up in the BOND Stitch Encyclopedia Vol #1, and also in the Sept/Oct 1991 (Issue #44) of The Machine Knitters Source.

I gave you a few more hints and tips here than what you will find in those publications.

I am glad somebody asked about the technique and hope that you will show the technique to others.

I must ask though, that you respect copyright on this article written here and print it only for personal use. Thanks so very much!

Just a little background info from Cindy, “I never liked knitting the fair-isle stitches by hand, so I had been racking my brain as to a way in which they could be knitted with a carriage. It came to me one morning at 6AM while lying in bed!!! Needless to say, I had to get up and try my idea to see if it worked. I’m sure glad it did. You never know what you can come up with by doing a little thinking! Maybe you will discover a new technique.”


How to convert patterns to match your own gauge.

Converting Sweater Patterns . . to Fit Your Swatch Gauge

For any method, step one is always, MAKE A TENSION / GAUGE SWATCH.

You will need to know:

How many stitches are there in an inch of your swatch?

This is your STITCHES PER INCH: __________

How many rows are there in an inch of your swatch?

This is your ROWS PER INCH: __________

A pattern that has diagrams with exact measurements is the easiest to work with. You simply multiply the horizontal line measurements by your stitches per inch, and the vertical line measurements by your rows per inch.

(Stitches go left to right, and rows go up and down.)

If you are using a hand knitting pattern, you need a calculator to re-calculate the stitches and rows given. I find the easiest way is to photocopy the pattern, and write the new number in the line space above the old figures. If that seems confusing, white out the old numbers, use the original to fill in the new, as follows.

Divide your stitch gauge by the pattern stitch gauge to get the multiplier. (your gauge divided by pattern gauge = multiplier.)

Example: Your swatch is 9 stitches per inch, the pattern gauge is 8 stitches per inch. 9 divided by 8 = 1.125

Now everywhere the pattern gives stitches you multiply by the multiplier (Example = 1.125)


If the pattern says cast on 100 stitches, you would multiply 100 x 1.125 = 112.5 stitches. You decide whether to use 112 or 113. One stitch usually doesn’t matter much.

If the pattern says decrease 7 stitches for the underarm, the formula would be 7 x 1.125 =7.875, decrease 8 sts.

If the pattern says the shoulder is 24 stitches, use 24 x 1.125 = 27 stitches.

Now we do the same thing with the row gauge.

Divide your row gauge by the pattern row gauge to get the multiplier. (your gauge divided by pattern gauge = multiplier.)

Example: Your gauge is 12 rows per inch the pattern gauge is 15 rows per inch. 12 divided by15 = 0.8

Everywhere the pattern tells you to knit rows, you multiply by the multiplier. (Example=0.8)

If the pattern says to knit 10 rows, use 10 x 0.8 = 8 rows.


If the pattern says to knit 33 rows, use 33 x 0.8 = 26.4, decide whether to knit 26 or 27 rows to fit the pattern.

The only time this is tricky, is when there are complicated sleeve increases and decreases. Try to make them match the rows to be knit. Often you may have to double up on the decreases in order to have all the decreases finished by the last row.


I used to use only Windows programs, but there are so many Phone apps, look at them and decide which ones you like.