Everyone often thinks that making a bra is difficult and requires tons of hard-to-find materials. Actually, you can easily make a group of bras, like strapless, tube, padded, best sports bra for saggy breasts or best bra for wide set chest with straightforward stuff.
When creating a bikini top on your own, you can design and decorate it in the style that suits you the most. We’ve shown a supply list for the first time bra-maker to start the work. Now, let’s get the ball rolling!
Bra-making Machine and Stitches
Our undergarments are stretched and under lots of stress when we’re using them. And the stitches’ quality is the secret to a bra’s durability after many washings and wearings.
You don’t really need a modern device that does loads of types of stitches. Indeed, what you need is solely three stitches to ensure the functional performance of a bra.
Straight stitch is the first basic sort used for both seaming and topstitching. When the machine runs, this stitch gives out a straight line of upper thread engaging with a straight line of bobbin fiber underneath.
The second type to come is zigzag stitch – the most common one after the straight stitch. Bra makers often apply this one in stretching seams, edge finishes, or sewing elastic. It is particularly useful for eliminating thread tears posed by undergarment stress.
Although the standard zigzag is a multi-functional stitch, it sometimes causes elastic to lose stretches or delicate fabric to bunch up closely. Consequently, the thread line may pucker and not be flat.
You can use the 3-step zigzag stitch instead to avoid those disadvantages. This stitch sort is flatter, stronger, and able to add durability to your brassiere. However, the 3-step zigzag is hard to remove. So please test it and double-check the construction before sewing.
Patterns and Where To Buy Them
There is a wide array of bra patterns that you can find, namely partial band, molded cup, or sport. Nonetheless, should it be your first bra, the highly-recommended pattern is a classic full band bra. This bra gets a band running under the cups so that you can sew it without underwires.
Bra patterns are available in many brick-and-mortar and online stores. It would be best if you opted for famous and prestigious brands like Pin-Up Girls or Merckwaerdigh to have high-quality patterns with various sizes and colors.
If you desire to buy components separately and personalize your own bras in the way you wish, you can follow the material list below.
The brassiere band goes around the boob and hooks up in your back, so the band fabric should be easy to be stretched. Besides, the band shouldn’t also be too stretchy as it may move upward out of its proper position. You’d better select band fabrics with a solid stretch like PowerNet to let the bra embrace your body perfectly.
Unlike band fabrics, cup fabrics are more supportive without stretch. Therefore, the cup fabric should range from no-stretch to low-stretch to provide shape to the bust.
Duoplex fabric is a good choice since it’s 100% polyester tricot knit and doesn’t contain spandex. That’s why this fabric is lightweight, comfortable, and washable.
We’ll need two elastics – one for the top of the band and one for the bottom, at the edge of the underarm. It is the bottom elastic to support the cups; thus, this elastic should be wider than the top one.
You can choose among soft band, firm band, gripper, plush band, and wideband elastics based on your project. Wideband sort is usually for big-sized cups, gripper is for medium cups, and soft bands are for smaller cups.
There are a couple of material combinations for straps, including all-elastic, non-stretch, or both. Some suit better with certain clothes, and some suit better with certain body shapes. Our kit of choice is non-stretch strapping as this one is firm, detachable, and doesn’t give out any stretch.
Underwire & Wire Casing
As we’ve mentioned, if you go for a full band bra, the underwire is optional. Nonetheless, wire casing, or wire tubing, going around the cup is a must. Since it is slid inside the tube, the wire deters bias edges from tearing out.
You can look up underwire measurement charts on the Internet to find your suggested size or select the size based on your traditional daily bra. In case you choose the second way, please make sure the size you’re wearing is exactly for you.
Hooks & Eyes
Hooks and eyes assist in fastening undergarments and are often positioned at the top of the hook-up. Not only do they help overlap the breast band edges but they also hold the fabric ends together.
They come in a broad range of sizes, from tiny to immense. You can use 1×3 hooks & eyes set (one hook high and three eyes wide) for small cups, 2×3 for medium cups, 3×3 set for large cups, and 4×3 supports for super large breasts.
Neckline elastic trims are ornamental and stretchy cuts sewn around the fabric’s edge to complete it neatly and sightly. You can use these tools for many sewing projects, primarily for bras strap trim.
Neckline trim often comes under a zigzag stitch, allowing the fabric to bend along with the trim and wrapping off the edge. Besides, it can prevent that raw edge from tearing and stretching out in case the stabilizer’s thin strip is sewn under the trims.
The small adornment, or the bow, contributes greatly to your bra’s additional finishing touch, making it look as new as you’ve just bought it.
Apart from offering a decorative function, this item also conceals the closing stitch line of the wire casing and adds a pretty appearance to your undergarment.
Sewing a bra on your own is not only more economical than buying one but also helps you get a bra that fits you perfectly in the style you wish. With several simple kits and patterns above, you can become a great bra maker without experience or professional techniques.
We hope our post does give you a hand to have a good preparation for your bra-making process. So now, let’s put your creativity into practice!